# Definitive Guide to Timelapse and Hyperlapse Intervals
The difference between an amateur high-speed video and a cinematic timelapse mathematically lies in one single factor: the interval. This calculator removes the guesswork, allowing you to precisely plan your intervalometer shot to capture sunrises, urban traffic, or the Milky Way with perfect fluidity.# Recommended Intervals Table (Cheat Sheet)
Use this quick reference table to set your intervalometer according to the subject. The goal is to capture enough movement to be perceptible but smooth.| Subject / Scene | Suggested Interval | Event Duration (Minimum) |
|---|---|---|
| Fast Clouds / Storms | 1 - 2 seconds | 20 - 30 min |
| Urban Traffic / People (Blur) | 0.5 - 2 seconds | 15 - 20 min |
| Sunset / Sunrise (Holy Grail) | 5 - 10 seconds | 1.5 - 2.5 hours |
| Slow Clouds / Shadows | 10 - 15 seconds | 2 - 3 hours |
| Stars / Milky Way (Astro) | 15 - 30 seconds* | 3 - 5 hours |
| Construction / Fast Plants | 5 - 15 minutes | Days / Weeks |
Note for Astro
The interval is usually dictated by the exposure time needed to capture light (500 rule) + 1 or 2 seconds of buffer for card writing.# The 180° Rule (Motion Blur)
A common mistake in timelapse is getting a "jittery" or staccato (strobing) video. To get that smooth cinematic look, you need motion blur.The Rule
Example: If you shoot every 4 seconds, your exposure should be 2 seconds. This fills the "temporal gap" between photos, creating trails in cars and soft water.
# Flicker and Manual Aperture
"Flicker" is the annoying flickering caused by micro-variations in the diaphragm aperture between shots.- Lens Twist: Slightly unlock the lens on DSLRs to break the electronic connection and fix the aperture mechanically.
- All Manual: ISO, White Balance, and Focus must be fixed. Never use automatic modes.
- Shoot in RAW: Essential for correcting exposure and color in post-production without destroying the image.